It was a cold November morning. We had agreed to meet at 8.30 at Versailles (probably the oldest – and most beautiful – café in Lisbon) for breakfast. It opened in 1922 and is richly decorated in an Art Nouveau style, with a predomination of gold and mirrors and a look of older times. I’ve been going there for many years and I still love it. Besides – it has the most wonderful “duchesses”, small cakes with pastry and “crème …